I’ve never been in love with Montmartre–mostly because so many other tourists are. I prefer the charming, still-almost-undiscovered Marais or at least the much more central Saint-Germain-des-Prés. But the last time I was in Paris, I went off the sex shop studded main drag and snuck away from the hordes at Sacré-Cœur. I finally discovered a part of Montmartre that might cause me to have a change of heart: tree-lined alleyways, an unassuming wine bar filled with friends, quirky street art.
Of course, there’s still the impressive (and failing) street artists, the crowds gathered on the steps to take in the sunset. Even if it’s not my favorite place in Paris, I’m finally starting to understand the draw.